Monastic Mastiffs

It is essential to get your Mastiff puppy out as much as possible in the first year of life!

I cannot stress this point enough. YOU will shape the kind of dog that you have in your Mastiff puppy by consistent daily training sessions, puppy classes, obedience classes, visits to petsmart/petco, conformation classes etc..etc..

A Mastiff who is at home full time without exposure to other people and environments in the first year or two, will usually become a one-family dog who is often not comfortable with strangers or in any other environment.
An outgoing, well-adjusted canine good citizen is created and not born in most cases. If this is not a good time for you to properly socialize and train a Mastiff puppy for the first couple of years of his/her life, do not consider buying one until you do have time and opportunity to raise the dog properly. Your Mastiff will, in large part, be what you make of him or her.

Mastiffs are an ancient breed of dogs who are very far removed from their original purpose as dogs of war.

The Mastiff is devoted to his family and is generally reserved around strangers, although some are less so than others.

Like children, they have individual personalities and some will be more easily trainable than others.

No matter how 'easy' the puppy is to train, ALL Mastiff puppies must be socialized and trained to develop into healthy, stable adults.

If you have been lucky enough in the past to have had a Mastiff who seemed to come 'already trained' from day one, you have had your one-time good deal!

Do not expect your Mastiff puppy to be like that one or like one you have 'heard about' who just did not need a lot of work in 'becoming' a canine good citizen.

The vast majority of English Mastiffs require continuous and consistent socialization and training during the first couple of years of their lives, in order to develop into the

Most Mastiffs can have a tendency to be unsure of things they’ve never seen or experienced and if not exposed to new situations and environments early on, can become fearful dogs

It is normal for Mastiff puppies to go through stages where they can be very tentative and cautious in new environments.

When you see your puppy go through such stages it is a sign that you need to step up your efforts to socialize him in and around your town and community, while he is still very formative.

You will need to get the puppy out of his home to visit new places and people -- at least three days a week while growing up.

Studies have shown that the earlier the socialization starts, the better adjusted the puppy will be as an adult.

Asking strangers feed the puppy treats that you provide, is always helpful and the puppy comes to expect pleasure from meetings with new people.

You don’t want to frighten the puppy, but instead, to gradually get closer and closer to the commotion, reassuring him with lots of praise and treats.

The best adjusted adult Mastiffs have also been exposed early to bicycles, wheelchairs, skateboards ,motorcycles etc..!

Keep in mind that many people are not as responsible with their dogs as you are, so when you are on outings with him, you should protect the puppy from any stray dogs.

Preventing Dog Aggression

If he is lunged at or attacked as a puppy by another dog, your puppy can become learn to become dog aggressive for the rest of his life.

It only takes one traumatic experience to create a dog who cannot be trusted for a lifetime.

Your diligence at watching for such potential or develping situations and avoiding them-- can make all the difference.

Do not reassure for shy behavior, but praise for positive behavior, and correct for any undesireable behavior.

Attend puppy kindergarten and basic obedience/beginner obedience in order that your puppy has lots of good 'dog socialization' and to learn manners.

The skills learned at these classes will provide the backbone of his future as a canine good citizen that you can trust and be proud of.

Mastiffs are very clean dogs and generally much easier to house break than smaller breeds. Crate training is our method of choice for housetraining.

Crate~ suggested for leaving pup, or at night. A 700 size Vari-Kennel works well, or a wire crate of similar size. Nice in car, too. Exercise pen~ or x-pen-- a foldable fence for indoor or outdoor use-- great for temporary confinement in the yard, at class, in a motel, etc. 36 height is nice

Almost every time the puppy eats, drinks, sleeps or plays, he will need to go outside afterwards. If the puppy sniffs or starts to squat indoors, say “no” firmly and immediately carry him outdoors to the proper spot and let him relieve himself. Their bladder capacity will increase as they grow, so do not leave them alone for long periods of time during the housebreaking process.

I have found it useful to use the same word each time when taking him out for that purpose such as ‘potty’. As soon as the puppy relieves himself, praise him happily ‘Good potty!’ and make him feel good and he gradually begins to associate the word with the action.

Remember that when training a dog he does not yet know your language! You have to teach him what you want him to know and he can only learn this by repetition. Instruct other members of your family or friends who will have a part to play in your puppy’s life, in the words that you are using with him, so that they also will help to reinforce what you are doing and not confuse him.

After he potties outside take him right back inside so he makes the connection that outside is the “right” place to relieve himself, and that he was out there for a purpose. If the puppy makes a mistake, don’t spank, scream or rub his nose in it. Just say “no” firmly and take him outside for a short time, instructing him ‘go potty’. Clean the inside mess thoroughly to remove the scent and relocate solid waste to the designated potty area outside. A regular schedule will help as well. You can avoid a lot of messes by taking the puppy out often, then praising for a job well done.

When you leave the puppy home alone, confine him to a small area like a dog crate or a small pen. This should be just enough to stretch out comfortably. Have a securely fastened water dish available in warm weather. Dogs do not like to soil their “den,” so if he’s walked before you leave and not left for too long, you will hopefully come back to a clean crate. If you have to leave for more than a few hours, take the puppy (in his crate) with you so you can let him out every few hours. If it is not possible to take the puppy, find a reliable person to let the puppy out while you’re gone, or come home on your lunch break. Upon returning, take him out first thing and praise for going outside. If you have some mistakes at first, it may be that he is just too young to hold it for very long. He’s not making messes to spite you--he is probably miserable for not doing the right thing, but he can’t help it!

Try not to leave your puppy for too long. If he cries and whines while you are gone, try to catch him at it and scold him for it. Don’t give in and let him out. If it doesn’t get him anywhere, he’ll give it up eventually. Leave a radio playing to keep him company while you’re out, and leave a light on, too. Don’t forget to leave a nylabone or other appropriate, safe toy with him.

At night, let the pup sleep next to your bed in his crate or an exercise pen. As soon as he is reliable, he would enjoy a bed or cushion in the same area. Letting him sleep in your bedroom will help bond him to you even more. Mastiffs were developed to be home guards, inside with their families. They are not happy when they are not included at all times.

I have found the more athletic and outgoing Mastiffs to be not unlike a precocious child. Inquisitive and highly intelligent- more trouble than the more complacent natured Mastiff but VERY trainable. These 'type-a' Mastiffs are also smart enough to think things over before blindly obeying. You must lovingly parent them as you would that precocious child and never let them be in control of you.

This is why I recommend that you get him and KEEP him enrolled in ongoing obedience or socializing classes for the first year of his life. These types of classes help teach you to train your dog and can be an enjoyable bonding experience with your new puppy that lays the foundation for a lifetime.

The last thing anyone wants is a 200 - plus pound dog that is out of control and a nuisance to everyone. Such a dog ultimately is not happy because no one wants to be around him. These dogs are created and not born- and through neglect of TRAINING and SOCIALIZATION. It is very difficult to do this training after they already have behavior problems. So please do it right the first time around!

Mastiffs are a very sensitive breed. Any formal obedience or puppy kindergarten class should be taught with praise and treats, not brute force, throwing things at the dog, or punishment. Investigate the class before enrolling to find the right instructor for your puppy.

If you use a choke chain in training your mastiff (recommended), always remove this after training. It is a training aid only. Many dogs have been needlessly strangled or injured while wearing a choke chain when they were not in actual training sessions. A correct choke chain is made of small, tight links and should only have 2-3 inches of slack when pulled tight. A “pinch” or “prong” collar is rarely necessary but when used properly can be helpful. Most puppies don’t need a choke chain until 6-8 months or so.

Place a buckle collar on your puppy right away so he can get used to something around his neck. Don’t give in when he whines, scratches the collar, or rolls around. The puppy will soon forget all about it. After he gets used to the collar, some breeders suggest attaching a “Flex-lead” and taking the puppy outside. A Flex-lead is a retractable leash available at most kennel supply shops, and it makes lead training very simple. It also comes in handy anytime when traveling or going for walks, etc. Let the puppy lead you around sniffing and exploring, so he can get used to the pressure.

The next step would be to add light pressure and walk away from the puppy. Bend down, call his name, offer treats and praise, and make a big deal out of coming to you. Treats are always helpful in boosting confidence in any stressful situation.

When leaving your dog at home alone, confine him to a safe area-- a crate, exercise pen or a covered chain link run with a warm shelter and a bed. When he is reliable in your home, he should be allowed to be left loose in the house while you are gone.

Mastiffs are often targeted to be stolen, poisoned, or teased, so be very careful, and provide a safe yard environment.

Because of the fast growth rate, no structured exercise should be given. Just normal playing and socialization should be enough to tire him out. Never push him, or you will end up with a lame puppy.

Avoid heavy playing with other pets. Jumping down from things is very hard on their joints.

Don’t let them jump down from couches, high steps, vehicles, etc. Always help them down, even as adults. We suggest giving dogs toys to play with, but don’t throw them far, or repeatedly. Leaping and twisting are very dangerous for large dogs such as these, and it stresses their joints, particularly their knees. It can also lead to death by bloat (torsion).

Limit access to stairs-- if stairs are necessary, make sure that you are controlling the dog by the collar as he goes up and down them until the dog is well accustom to stairs. No wet or slippery stairs... cover with tread as needed.

Don’t keep your puppy on a slick floor all the time, as this is not good for growing puppies. Chasing and sliding on slick floors is asking for injuries. Always have a soft area for any mastiff to lay down (puppy or adult), as this cuts down on the amount of callusing, and may help prevent “hygromas,” which are harmless but unattractive fluid pouches that may form on the back of the elbows. They do not cause pain, and as calluses develop over them, the fluid reduces. They act as natural shock- absorbers. Some mastiffs get them, and some do not. Cushioning their resting places can help in this regard. Do not allow the fluid to be drained, as this is not necessary, can cause infection in the joint, and the fluid comes right back anyhow. Leave a hygroma alone unless they become red, hot or infected, or if the dog becomes lame on that leg for longer than a few days.

You should be able to see a hint of the last couple of ribs, but no hip bones. Always provide plenty of fresh water at all times. As the puppy grows, you will want to move his water bucket or dish outdoors to avoid a lake indoors. Adding excessive amounts of table scraps to their dry food can result in your dog becoming very finicky, and unbalances the diet. Be consistent with your feeding program and do not deviate from it for best results. Never feed dog milk, as this will cause diarrhea.

The puppy should not have hugely swollen wrist joints, sloppy feet, or be terribly high in the rear.

These and/or occasional or constant limping means that the puppy is growing too fast. Cut back on the food!

You cannot hurt him by keeping him thin, but you can ruin him orthopedicly for life by overfeeding a Mastiff puppy.

Mastiff puppies need to be kept on the lean side to ensure slow, proper bone growth.

No supplements, such as Pet-tabs, Sure-Gro, vitamins, calcium, etc., should be given, as they will do more harm than good.

Offer the dry food specified, soaked in warm water for a few minutes first, in a clean bowl.

Thorough feeding instructions to be given to each new puppy owner before leaving our home.

Adult food or large breed puppy food only- NO 'hi-pro' foods are safe for Mastiff puppies.

Your puppy has been started on vaccinations and has been wormed. When you make your first visit to the vet a couple of days after getting him, take the pup’s health record to show your vet at this time. Discuss any other preventative vaccinations or preventative medications relative to your region.

Start the pup on Advantage or Frontline monthly flea preventative drops right away if you have other pets in the home that may have fleas such as cats or other dogs, or if you live in an area with a tick or flea problem. Make appointments for vaccination visits at 10 and 14 weeks of age, when he will need a booster for distemper, hepatitis, Para influenza, and parvovirus and corona virus-- usually given in one or two separate shots.

At 14 weeks, he will also need a vaccination for Bordatella (“Canine Cough”). At 17 weeks, he will need another set of boosters--DHPP-C, plus his rabies vaccination. All vaccinations should be repeated a year later from the 17-week visit, and then always repeated yearly ( unless you choose to have the vet do a blood test yearly to check his titers or level of immunities, before just re-vaccinating your dog. This is more expensive than simply vaccinating yearly, but does prevent giving your dog any more vaccines than he really needs to have.

At each of these puppy vaccination visits, it is best to check his stools for roundworms and hookworms. (Unless he is already on 'Interceptor for Heartworm prevention as that medication also kills these worms.)

On the 17 week visit, take a fecal sample (no more than 2 hours old) for your vet to examine one more time for worms.

Until after the 17- week vaccinations, it is best for your puppy to avoid a lot of direct contact with other dogs, especially puppies

with unknown health status, as his resistance to those diseases may not be built up yet.

Ask the vet for advice on this matter, but you still must socialize your puppy with people and things.

Socialization is essential in order for this puppy to become a stable adult.

Immediate recognition of the condition is essential in order for your dog's survival if they begin to bloat . Many dogs have survived after surgery to have no further recurrences, but time is of the essence in achieving this outcome- and sometimes no matter what you do, it simply isn't enough. .

Bloat occurs when the dog’s stomach overfills with gas. The stomach can flip over (torsion), causing the ends to constrict. This causes food and gases to be trapped inside the stomach, and restricts blood flow to the heart and other tissues. This will lead to death quickly and painfully if not immediately surgically corrected.

Dogs have bloated when panting and stressed because a female was in heat in their immediate vicinity. Stress is a factor sometimes and when a dog is stressed they pant a lot - thus are considered to be at a higher risk for bloat due to the swallowing of air.

Obviously, it is not known exactly what causes bloat, although several causes have been investigated, including genetics, individual stomach digesting patterns, rib cage to 'tuck-up' ratios, exercising or drinking too close after meals, and stress.

These tips may not stop your dog from bloating, but it certainly won’t hurt to avoid these situations.

Symptoms of bloat include: distress, panting, restlessness, hiding, pacing around and laying down, laying very still, and then moving around again. Also drooling and foaming excessively, vomiting with nothing or foam coming up, and a swollen, “ripe watermelon” tight stomach. If any combination of these symptoms occurs, day or night, see a vet immediately. Discuss your vet’s availability to these sorts of emergencies before they occur and know where your nearest emergency vet clinic is because when bloat strikes seconds count.

Bathe your mastiff at least monthly with a mild dog shampoo, unless needed more often.

The less bacteria allowed to accumulate on the skin, the less skin problems your dog will experience in general.

Do not worry that their skin will dry out. A Mastiffs skin is very oily. Trim your dogs nails weekly so he gets used to this. Make it fun for him and give him a reward for cooperating with the trim.

Have some 'Kwik Stop' (silver nitrate) on hand to prevent bleeding in case you hit the quick now and then. Nail Clippers~ Resco large dog size nail clippers, or Dremel motor-tool grinder with coarse grit sanding drum sleeves Go slow with this until you know what you are taking off the nail!)

By using a waterbed adapter and stretching a garden hose outdoors from an inside sink, you will be able to use warm water and still avoid getting the bathroom all steamy and hairy. Do not let your dog get fleas, as they will cause many problems, such as tapeworms, hot spots and infestation of your entire household. It is very difficult to get rid of fleas once your house is infested.

Brushing your mastiff every few days with a rubber curry comb may help keep him clean and reduce hair in the house.

Do not brush for a few days following topical flea control, and don’t bathe two days before or after application, giving it ample time to be fully absorbed.

Shampoo~ mild, tearless, does not need to be flea or medicated shampoo, preferably natural product.

Brushes~ rubber curry brush (the serrated oval kind), Just plain fingers work great, too!

Wipe any visible grime out with a cotton ball soaked in a veterinary ear cleaner. If the ears are red, runny, foul smelling, have excessive brown grime, or the dog shakes his head a lot, tilts or scratches at them, have the vet check your dog’s ears.

Mastiffs are very prone to yeast infection of the ears, which appears as a brown coating inside the ear. Oto-Max is a prescription product that works very well on yeast. I often use ear cleaner on my dog’s ears after a bath, or any time they have been in water, to help prevent a yeast infection. A good yeast preventative ear cleaner is a solution of half white vinegar and half water.

I have also found that the more I disturb a healthy ear the more prone they are to yeast or other infections.

If they are both clean and pink, don’t put anything in them. 'If it aint broke don't fix it'.

Do not let the dog scratch or chew at himself, as this will cause coat damage and hot spots. A dog with healthy skin and no fleas should not need to scratch. Use “Bitter Apple” spray to keep him from chewing or licking on himself.

Keep an eye on your dog’s teeth. Your puppy will start losing his puppy teeth at around four months of age. Provide “Nylabone” chew toys (recommended because of their safety) to help him work those puppy teeth out.

When the dog has his adult teeth, watch for tartar buildup. Consult your vet if there is an excessive buildup, foul-smelling odor or bleeding gums. Scrape tartar off of teeth with your fingernail or flat-ended tartar scraper every month, and you will help out a lot with dental health and avoidance of bad breath. Brushing with a plain dry toothbrush two or three times a week will also benefit your dog’s dental health and help prevent bad breath. Nylabones (the large knots, giant Nylarings, wolf- sized Wishbones and Galileos are the best) are our dog’s only toys left around the house.

They chew them for fun and to relieve stress, with cleaner teeth also being a side benefit. Other toys are not a good idea, unless you are there to supervise.

Do not give your dog most rawhide chews, as these can lead to intestinal blockage.

Compressed rawhide is safest but still must be very carefully supervised.

Real bones, even the special “sterile” ones sold for dogs, are in my opinion not safe because they are too abrasive and

Mastiff toys must be carefully chosen because of their jaw strength. Cow hooves are dangerous, tendons and pig ears

are unpleasant. If you give these “goodie” chewies, they won’t want their Nylabones, which are very good for them to use.

At your initial vet visit with your new puppy, discuss heartworm preventative options with your vet.

There are safe monthly pills available, but the dog must have a blood test before starting heartworm preventative and should be repeated yearly. Heartworms are extremely dangerous, and are spread by mosquito larvae. Ask your vet for information about heartworms and never fail to give the heartworm preventative to your dog.

Many dogs who come into rescue test heartworm positive and must undergo expensive treatments in order to save their lives.

A dog who is not given regular heartworm preventative is at great risk for contracting the disease and in this case, an ounce of prevention is worth it’s weight in GOLD.

Station wagons and vans are the best ways to transport a mastiff. A dog crate within one of these vehicles is even more desirable, because the animal is kept from being thrown around in the event of an accident. He is also prevented from escaping in a crisis. A crate should be big enough for the dog to stand and lie down comfortably, and should be sheltered from sunlight. Wire crates are best, and a 48” long X 24” wide X 36” high sized crate is usually big enough for any adult mastiff. Never leave a dog in a vehicle on a warm day. Keep a sheet handy in your vehicle to shade it when stopped. Just close it in a door and tie or clamp on where the sun shines in.

If you purchased a show quality puppy, you need to get your puppy into a conformation class for show training as soon as possible. This is usually around three months of age. Here your puppy will learn to stand for examination, and how to be gaited in different patterns. Do not teach your puppy to sit for food, as this may cause sitting in the show ring. You will learn to show your dog to its fullest potential. Even if you are going to hire a handler, your puppy still needs to be trained first. There is no reason to only work on either conformation or obedience at one time. We have trained ours in both at the same time, and the one always enhances the other.

It is very helpful to read books on raising and training a puppy. This subject is so extensive that we can’t tell you everything in this particular Puppy Care attachment. Among the many good books, one is “Mother Knows Best,” by Carol Lea Benjamin.

We are very interested in you and your puppy, and we are always happy to help if you need us. If you have a problem or question, chances are that we have encountered the same issues somewhere along the way.

We wish for you to keep us posted on how your dog is doing, whether show or pet quality. And remember, the love you give your mastiff is always returned a thousand fold .

PUPPY TRACKS NEWSLETTER!

http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Acres/1239/PTN.html

Check out this Wonderfully educational resource for new puppy owners

from Donna Dick of Mastiffs of Grandeur!

Good Mastiff Toys~ Nylabones- (regular, not gummabones)- giant Nyla-ring, Souper, Large Nylaknot, Galileo. Hambone scented or chocolate are the most durable of the flavors.

Other toys - With Supervision- Kongs, Booda Bones, Indestructible balls.

THANK YOU FOR OFFERING YOUR HOME, HEART AND TIME TO A Monastic Mastiff PUPPY. You are welcome to call or email anytime you want or need to. I care and I want to know how they are doing, always and forever. May you be richly blessed by having had this dog in your life.

From our heart to yours,

Dolly and Brock Moore

Monastic Mastiffs